At The Polo Club of Boca Raton (Fla.), members are transported daily to Paris—no passport needed. It’s thanks in large part to Executive Pastry Chef and Chocolatier Devin Cowan, among C+RC’s 2024 40 Under 40, who recently spearheaded the opening of the Polo Patisserie, a gourmet bake shop featuring house-made croissants, scones and custom delicacies.
Cowan’s passion project is the culmination of a career that has allowed him to perfect his craft, while bringing his long-term vision into focus.
Carte Blanche Culinary
Cowan’s interest in baking took root as a young boy, but, as he explains, his style wasn’t entirely hands-on.
“My grandmother always baked pies and cakes during the holidays,” he recalls. “She had an old oven, and I would intentionally jump around in the kitchen to make things collapse so I could eat the sweets.”
The budding foodie went on to major in organic chemistry during college, where he realized the synergy between his loves of science and pastry. (Spoiler alert: Culinary ultimately won out.) After studying baking and pastry arts at the Louisiana Culinary Institute, followed by a brief stint at The Greenbrier, Cowan joined the team at The Polo Club, where he will soon celebrate his third anniversary.
While Cowan had high aspirations as a young chef, he was intent on not peaking too soon.
“I made a conscious decision in my career to not accept an executive or high-level management position too early on, so I could be more hands-on and master my craft,” he says.
Fully immersing himself in the pastry world taught him how to work with sugar and chocolate to create viennoiserie (breakfast pastry), breads, petit gâteau and specialty cakes.
Cowan’s all-in work ethic has served him well, particularly as his role at the club evolved along with the pastry program. Because his pastry department is a separate entity, he has complete autonomy over planning, production and execution. (Cowan does not report to a senior-level chef, but to General Manager/COO Liliana Hang and Director of Culinary and Dining Operations Antonio Campolio.) In addition to overseeing all baking, pastry, chocolate and confections on campus, he is given free rein when developing new concepts and ventures.
“I am empowered at this club to express my creativity without limit and bring my dreams to reality,” he says.
France al Fresco
Acquiring this sense of freedom led Cowan to put his idea for the Polo Patisserie into motion from the get-go. Inspired by a desire to combine his love of design and fashion, he tapped into his training and background in French pastry to create a distinct space that exemplifies a Parisian sidewalk café.
“I wanted a space that transports members,” says Cowan, “evoking memories of travel and celebrations—not just a place to grab a quick coffee or bite.”
What was originally a valet office just outside the clubhouse has been transformed into an accessible, walk-up spot with a greenery-framed service window and a few outdoor tables. While there are no seats indoors, patrons can enjoy al fresco dining within a newly designed orchid garden as they sample any number of house-made delicacies. Fresh croissants and quiches sell out every day, while scones, gourmet composed salads, açaí bowls and open-faced sandwiches offer further sustenance. On the beverage side, smoothies, cold-pressed juices and craft coffee drinks are top picks for pre- and post-workouts, golf rounds and tennis and pickleball matches.
Fresh ingredients are key to the patisserie’s menu—something in which Cowan takes great pride and continues to cultivate. Sandwiches and quiches are plated with fresh greens grown at the club’s very own farm, Vintage Roots.
“I spend most Thursdays on our farm, caring for our eight beehives that produce a seasonal harvest of organic honey that I feature in many menu items,” he says. House-made honey is also available to members for purchase.
As if that weren’t sweet enough, the patisserie also sells a variety of culinary gifts, including custom baskets, artisanal bonbons, freshly packaged sweets and unique wine pairings. Cowan is already planning to expand his menu and gift selections in the coming months; rosé will be added to the wine list, and blended fruit bowls and seasonal ice creams (sold by the pint) will be part of the new lineup.
Because Cowan is well aware of how much members covet special releases, they can expect to see new limited-edition items, which will be advertised via the club’s social media accounts.
“The first drop of chocolate novelty Easter eggs sold out in the first hour,” he says, “and I can’t wait to announce the next one.”
