No matter what the style, the right rub variation and smoking strategy are the keys to memorable meat.
Gerald Ford, CMC, applies one coat of dry rub and lets it sit overnight before applying a second coat and starting the smoking. He suggests a ratio of .25-.5 oz. of rub per pound of meat.
Summertime means sunshine, pool season and barbecue—one of the most quintessential culinary examples of America’s melting pot. Whether we’re talking Texas brisket and mustard-based sauces or sweet, sticky, spicy St. Louis-style pork ribs, the world of barbecue opens the table to all sorts of possibilities. And as many chefs and clubs continue to actively rely on outdoor dining as a safe way forward through the COVID-19 pandemic, barbecue can be great for bringing members together in a safe and delicious way.
I’ve traveled around the country and experienced each region’s signature barbecue. Despite all the differences between styles, there is one thing I can say with absolute certainty: All barbecue relies on two key elements, rub and smoke.
I’m oversimplifying, but here is a basic three-part base rub from which to build on:
2 parts sugar
2 parts sweet paprika
1 part garlic powder
Kicking up the complexity just a touch, my all-purpose rub is as follows:
2 parts sugar
2 parts sweet paprika
1 part garlic powder
½ part ground black pepper
½ part onion powder
¼ part dried thyme
I can tailor this rub to fit any profile or region I want. If I want a more exotic flavor, I add one part of curry powder or five-spice powder. If I want my barbecue to have Cajun flair, I add one part Cajun seasoning or Paul’s Blackening Magic.
When I was a younger cook, I was taught to coat brisket with Worcestershire powder and then rub it with this base rub. The Worcestershire powder serves as an adhesive and ultimately evolves the barbecue process.
I prefer to apply the rub and allow it to sit overnight. The following day, I will season the meat with salt and a fresh dry coat of rub, especially for full cuts like brisket or pork butt. The rub is always very heavily applied, in a ratio of .25-.5 oz. of rub per pound of meat. Then it’s time to start smoking.
Subtle Smoke
Smoking is its own art that many spend a lifetime mastering. I’m not going to tackle that here, but it is important to have a source for smoke, be it pellets, wood chunks or whole logs. You will also need the right piece of equipment for your club.
Have you ever eaten barbecue that was bitter? It comes from eating meat smoked at high temperatures with what is called golden smoke. Golden smoke is bad, but blue smoke is good. To achieve blue smoke, lower the heat, cool down the chamber and aim for that grayish-white smoke. It will lead to the ideal temperature of 190° F to 275° F and yield the best results for a slow smoke and tenderizing cook.
Remember, protein no longer absorbs smoke after it reaches approximately 160° F. This is why low temperatures are especially important for barbecue. It’s the only way to achieve the smoke ring and flavor members crave.
Ford suggests using hickory to smoke beef, almost any hardwood or fruitwood for pork or wild game, and apple, cherry or mesquite for fish.
When I smoke, I use hickory for beef, almost any hardwood or fruitwood for pork or wild game, and apple, cherry or mesquite for fish. My logic is as follows: softer smoke and flavor is better for more delicate proteins, while hickory produces a hearty, rich smoke that beef and some pork cuts can hold up to.
Hickory will destroy any nuances in fish, however, because its smoke is so rich. Applewood will also contribute a nice smoke to beef, but it will yield a soft smoke flavor that I find does not do justice to the meat.
