Last July, when Cosmos Club Executive Chef Will Rogers was unexpectedly unavailable to host a chef’s table, instead of cancelling, he called upon his team to take the lead.
While they both had experience with chef’s tables, which occur monthly at the club since 2018, this was the first at Cosmos Club that was created by, and a complete collaboration between, Restaurant Chef Ailee Apac and Banquet Chef Yafreicy Rodriguez, alongside Pastry Chef Lillie Jo Slykhius.
Cosmos Club’s chef’s tables typically seat around 25. For Rodriguez and Apac, the menu-planning process was fairly seamless.
“First we sit down and talk about the theme,” notes Apac. “Then we start throwing ideas around for each course.”
In July, the two essentially alternated between who would take the lead on each course. But for other chef’s tables, they marry their ideas for courses together.
“As far as the collaboration, there is no ego, says Apac. “There’s no, ‘this is my dish, and this is your dish.‘ That’s nonexistent. I’ve been doing [chef’s tables] for quite some time, since I first started at the Jonathan Club, and this is is one of the best collaborations I experienced, working with [Rodriguez].”
Modernist Style
For each course, the chefs consider seasonality, wine pairings, as well as what proteins, vegetables, and flavors the membership as been enjoying lately. They’re also starting to incorporate more tableside elements to better engage members.
“Our membership is a little bit old-school, but we did use some techniques that are newer, that we don’t do often–a more modernist style of presenting and preparing dishes,” notes Rodriguez.
Examples include avocado-wrapped salad, surrounded by ice, a modern display created using a balloon, which Apac had practice executing from her time in LA.
Stone fruit spheres were another standout presentation, made using thickening agents.
“It holds all the liquid inside,” says Apac, “so with one bite, it will explode in your mouth and on your palate. … [The members] were very impressed.”
Sometimes Apac and Rodriguez will practice potential chef’s table courses as a restaurant special or for a banquet.
“Then when we do the chef’s table, we’re able to pick and choose what works really great, what the members enjoy,” says Rodriguez, “then we can add a modern touch or a different plating.”
For inspiration and to stay on top of trends, the Cosmos Club team looks to modern, fine dining, and Michelin-starred restaurants.
For the freshest produce, they need only look as far as the club’s own culinary gardens. In fact, the team plans to host an outdoor chef’s table within the garden.
“It really does make an impact on the way you execute, knowing you have the freshest product available that did not even go in the refrigerator yet,” Rodriguez says. “That alone gives us a sense of pride in our operation. We execute better knowing that we have the freshest ingredients available here in DC.”
