Acid is an essential component to so many recipes, as it adds balance, depth, complexity,and a burst of flavor. Acid is often provided by using wine, vinegar or citrus juice; however, verjus is an often-underutilized ingredient that is also capable of providing the necessary acid component to dishes.
An unfermented grape juice, verjus is almost a mid-point between vinegar and wine. Verjus was traditionally used as both a medical salve and a common cooking ingredient in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Primarily used in Rome, France and across Europe in the beginning, verjus has gained popularity in recent years and is now produced by many American wineries.
The word ‘verjus’ derives from the French term vert jus, meaning “green juice.” The product itself comes from high-acid, low-sugar grapes that haven’t fermented. Also known as ‘verjuice,’ verjus is the pressed juice of unripened grapes and can be made from either red or white grapes. Traditionally, verjus is made with the thinnings of a vineyard’s crop. When winemakers have excess grapes on the vine that aren’t going to ripen in time for harvest, or when they want to reduce yields so the resulting grapes produce more concentrated juice, they pick the unripe fruit and immediately press it.
Like wine and vinegar, each brand of verjus will have a distinct taste. Red verjus generally varies from gentle and floral to rich and hearty and white verjus can be light and mild or tangy and aggressive. However, unlike wine, verjus is not fermented and is not alcoholic. This means that the use of verjus in recipes will not interfere with the flavor of the accompanying drinking wine, as some acidic dishes do. Verjus also contains tartaric acid, which is the same acid found in wine, so it lends the same flavor profile to dressings, sauces, stews and glazes when reduced.
Verjus can be used in higher quantities than citrus juice or vinegar, as it has a sweet-tart flavor that is much gentler than vinegar. Red verjus can be used as you would use red wine vinegar or red wine and is particularly good in sauces for meat or spicy foods, as well as marinating. White verjus can be used as you would use white wine vinegar, lemon juice or white wine and is good in beurre blanc, or other sauces for chicken or fish. Verjus is popular to use in craft cocktails and can also be served with fruit and reduced as a syrup or even a jelly.
Many cuisines originally used tart fruits in their cooking, but once lemon became commonplace, the use of verjus quickly declined. However, since the 1980s, verjus regained popularity worldwide, particularly in Syrian and Persian cooking. Verjus itself is essentially sour, acidic grape juice; red verjus has an earthy flavor, while white has a crisper taste. Verjus gives a recipe acidity without the taste of a true vinegar, while also enhancing or brightening the flavors of both savory and sweet dishes.
