Patrick Vaccariello, Executive Chef, Tamarack Country Club
Inspiration can be found anywhere. However, for chefs, next-level inspiration truly comes from exploring new countries and regions and experiencing their cuisine to open one’s mind to new flavors and culinary possibilities. Tamarack Country Club’s (Greenwich, Conn.) offseason is a golden opportunity for the culinary team to recharge and reset.
I began my culinary adventures in 2009 and have “traveled like a local” to 28 different countries—no tour groups, no resorts, creating my itinerary through research (the secret: no fear!). This year, Tamarack CC’s Assistant General Manager, Karyn Anastasio, and I spent 23 days in Egypt and Istanbul, Turkey. There were many exciting and inspiring moments; I will highlight three outstanding experiences below.
Boat Trip Up the Nile to Aswan, Egypt
Having studied ancient civilizations in school, I jumped at the chance to sail up the Nile on a dahabiya (a traditional Egyptian sailboat); it was magical—like a living history lesson. We began our last day on the boat with a traditional Egyptian breakfast of shakshuka, yogurts, cheese, charcuterie, breads, and fruits. The crew always made sure we were comfortable and well-nourished. After we were ready to head ashore to explore the Temple of Kom Ombo. Built in 180 BC, the carvings and hieroglyphics are still incredibly well preserved from being buried in sand and silt for centuries.
We then checked out a camel auction in Nujoom Al Shabab, followed by a trip through a local market in Draw, a small village in Aswan. This market bustled with local shoppers and featured open-air butcher shops, where sides of lamb, beef, and camel hung from rafters. There were dealers of spices, teas, oils, and herbs—along with barbers, tailors, shoe and clothing stalls, home goods, and street food (the best part!). Smells of falafel frying, freshly baked bread, and Turkish coffee filled the air. We did our best to try it all! While there, we selected farm-fresh foods and some camel meat to bring back to the boat for dinner that evening. High tea, scones & cookies were waiting for us when we boarded the boat—what a nice touch. However, the main event was dinner which used all the amazing ingredients we bought from the market. Chef Mohammad prepared camel stew, stuffed pigeon, sautéed beef liver & onions with pomegranate molasses, sautéed saffron shrimp, pickled vegetables, stuffed zucchini, stuffed baby bell peppers, stir-fried green beans, and fresh-baked pita. This was a fantastic meal and an amazing way to cap off our four-day journey up the Nile from Luxor to Aswan.
Hurghada by the Red Sea
After our voyage along the Nile (which included some intensive Tomb & Temple history lessons with an Egyptologist), we looked to decompress a bit. We took a 2-hour flight from Aswan to Hurghada, once a small fishing village that has developed into a Red Sea resort city known for scuba diving and snorkeling in its pristine waters. We found a non-tourist boutique hotel at the Marina – aptly named “The Boutique Hotel at The Marina.” It was perfectly situated for us next to the local fish market, a corniche lined with yachts and fishing boats, and a bustling main street.
In the morning, we headed out for coffee and Egyptian pastries (we always skip hotel breakfasts to explore the local cafes). After a lively discussion with a café owner, we passed by many hawkers calling us into their shops (experience taught us to forge ahead) and made our way onto the side streets where children played alongside various shops. We eventually found the Hurghada Fish Market, where local fishermen sell their latest catch from the Red and Mediterranean Seas. Picture almost 70 crisscrossing stalls teeming with Slipper Lobsters, Needlefish, Hammer Grouper, Barracuda, and Red Mullet, among other varieties of seafood. At one stall, the fishmonger invited us to choose our lunch. His cook prepared us a feast of Grilled Snapper, Shrimp a la Plancha, Grilled Squid, and Grilled Barracuda. We sat in the market’s makeshift restaurant, marveling at the fact that our delicious meal was swimming just hours prior. And to think that six of us ate all this for less than $10 per person!
That evening, after visiting the Al Minya Mosque and enjoying some snorkeling at a local beach, we decided we wanted more fresh fish (when in Rome…). This time, we went to a highly regarded restaurant on Sheraton Road called Star Fish where we chose our dinner from the iced fish display. As we waited for our selections to be prepared, we were served Mezze platters of baba ghanoush, hummus, Muhammara, Slipper lobster, Giant prawns, seafood stew, steamed clams, roasted mussels, and Butterflied Roasted grouper. Locally considered a splurge at $55 per person, we felt it was a bargain. In the four days we spent in Hurghada, we filled every moment with adventurous diversions. In addition to sightseeing and snorkeling, we spent a day on a fishing boat, hit a shawarma food crawl, rode dune buggies in the desert, and explored the El Dahar bazaar.
Street Food Crawl in Istanbul
On to our next destination – Istanbul, Turkey! On our first day there, we woke up early with a plan to eat our way through various neighborhoods, focusing on Turkish street food and its associated culture. We stopped at a traditional café where a woman making Gözleme (Turkish pancake with spinach & white cheese) caught our eye through the window. We settled in on pillows on the floor and awaited our Gözleme, Sujuk (sausage served in a skillet with eggs), and a basket of fresh-baked crusty bread and (of course) the local Turkish coffee.
Afterward, we walked through Gülhane Park to Eminönü, where the Spice Bazaar and Grand Bazaar—a crazy mix of tourists and locals doing their shopping—are both located. There, we sampled a popular street food staple, Midye Dolma, black mussels stuffed with aromatic rice. As we made our way to the Eminönü ferry terminal, the corniche was lined with pushcarts peddling grilled corn on the cob, Tulumba (fried dough soaked in syrup), and roasted chestnuts. We’d seen these carts throughout all the neighborhoods and figured this was as good a time as any to grab a snack for the 20-minute ferry ride across the Bosphorus Strait to Kadiköy. The corn was sweet and tender, the chestnuts smoky and plump, and the crossing itself was beautiful with mosques and other ancient buildings dotting the city skyline.
In Kadiköy, we wound our way through the hilly, narrow streets—many under the cover of rainbow-colored umbrellas—and explored the fish and produce market. Based on a recommendation, we went to Balikci Lokantasi, a small off-the-beaten-path restaurant. As in Egypt, you choose right from the array of seafood on display which included John Dory, Sea Bream, Sardine, Mackerel, Anchovies, Scorpion Fish, Clams, Mussels, and Squid. We opted for Fried Turbot, Seafood Soup, and Grilled Sea Bream, served with Fatoosh Salad, Baba Ghanoush, and fresh bread. Complimentary tea and Kadayif (honeyed shredded wheat) were served for dessert. We walked off lunch through the busy streets of Kadiköy passing cafes, pasta shops, and marketplaces full of shoppers, loafers, and kids just out of school. We eventually made our way back to the ferry to our home base of Karaköy and Beyoglu.
As we got off the ferry, we watched fishermen lined across the bridge pull in their day’s catch from the Strait. We then walked through another quaint neighborhood called Cihangir. First stop: Beef Shawarma Doner, beef cooked on a vertical rotisserie and thinly sliced into toasted lavash (a Turkish flatbread) and filled with sumac onions and tomatoes. Continuing down the block, we noticed a line forming at a small shop. Whenever there is a line forming, you stop. In the window, men were dutifully rolling out Balik Durum, fresh mackerel with Turkish spices and sauce (similar to nam pla), cooked on a plancha, wrapped in lavash, and toasted till crispy. The combination of salty, sweet, sour, bitter, and umami could be tasted in every bite. As we came back up the hill to Karaköy, we came across Yöremiz, a well-known pide bakery. We ordered some pide with white cheese and crumbled beef. Baked in a wood-fired oven with a slightly charred crust, it reminded us of grandma’s pizza—as good as it gets.
To revive our appetites for a late dinner, we stopped off at one of the many bars on the famous Istiklal Street for live music and local Turkish beer (Efes brand). We had a reservation at a Meyanes, a tavern-style restaurant that specifically serves meze and grilled meats. It’s a unique Turkish experience and was the highlight of our food crawl. The cozy, old-world, linen-lined dining room of Asmali Cavit transported us back in time. From the vast selection of hot and cold mezes, we chose Baba Ghanoush, Crumbled Feta Salad with Almonds & Parsley, Gigante Beans with Tomato & Eggplant, Pickled Mackerel, and Su Borek (a meat and cheese pastry made with soft filo dough almost similar to Lasagna). The mixed grill of lamb chops, chicken thighs, beef kofte, and Sirloin rounded out the excellent meal. Any trip to Istanbul would not be complete without having a San Sebastian, a fluffy version of a NY Style Cheesecake slathered in milk chocolate sauce. We sat outdoors at Café Viyana Kahvesi in the shadow of the Galata Tower and a popular spot to enjoy this famous dish while people-watching.
Club dining is a challenging and competitive field where embracing fresh ideas, pushing boundaries, and staying relevant is important. Tamarack Country Club’s members have greatly benefited from my years of global travels and experiences. New menu items that I have successfully introduced over the years have included Cha Ca La Vong from Vietnam, Hummus from Israel, Salmorejo from Spain, Tajines from Morocco, Karaage from Japan, Char Siu Pork from Hong Kong, and Ceviche from Peru, to name a few.
This year, I’m inspired to focus on Arabic Mezes, which fit in well with the more health-conscious menu items that our members are requesting. Reflecting on my travels, it’s been an energizing way for me to better understand global cuisine and culture—which I can then pass on to our members, friends, and colleagues.
