The Union Club of Cleveland’s Lawrence McFadden, CMC, GM/COO, says cuisine, staff, and service must work in harmony.
While reminiscing on culinary excellence I always reflect with pride and joy on my unique journey and the lessons I learned along the way.
I remember my first experience at David Bouley’s restaurant in New York in the early nineties. Those years I was without a credit card so my ability to afford any experience led to serious dining decision-making. A once-a-year dining investment was not uncommon for me. The outing was always at an award-winning establishment for self-education.
I still remember when we entered Bouley’s restaurant in 1993. There was an orchid scent from perfectly stacked, lightly fermenting apples beside the podium. This sweet fragrance was just a precursor for things to come. Every detail had been considered. Like a great play, each “scene” was set by the marking of cutlery, the placement of accouterments, and the service of the wine. It led to great excitement for me as the diner. I still remember the second of the thirteen-course meal that featured a melted tomato terrine. The thought of that dish still evokes the emotion I felt on that day.
Years later, we strived to create the same experience at the Ritz Carlton in Naples. Our entire team focused on every touchpoint from the warm welcome to the fond farewell. Dining has never just been about taste. All five senses must play a part and soak in the award-worthy experience.
Culinary relied on two important partners in order to achieve the same standard: stewarding and laundry. Stewarding was masterful in the handling of all delicate products that required hand washing and storage. Laundry was in the care of linen which mean they had to balance the right amount of chemicals and heat in order to achieve perfection.
Frette was our linen choice. It was pressed in the laundry and detailed on the tables. The linen would arrive on bar racks hanging gently so as to not crease between services. The sheets of linen were covered in a gentle linen cloche-like cover so that they did not soil.
Opening waiter duties were to reposition and press the starched linen again over felt padded tables. This secured the perfect surface as we measured the length of each corner. We crumbed between each course so the linen had to be crisp and firm.
Joel Robuchon at MGM took this practice a step further in his namesake restaurant in Las Vegas. He only used one wash, fresh napkins for each service. Directly after, the linen was sliced up for rags. A bit dramatic? Maybe, but when you carry as many Michelin stars as he did, who can question his process.
We selected Laguiole knives which were made of olive wood with hand-honed blades. These works of art had their own customized storage box and were individually hand washed in distilled water. The instruments were so perfectly tuned, our guests thought we had improved the grade of beef. The knives sliced so perfectly which gave the impression of tenderness before the customer even placed the beef in their mouth.
Our beverages were nestled in Riedel glassware. The thin-lipped glass allowed for perfect tongue and lip marriage before the beautiful wine could be savored. The stem encouraged the diner to lift without adding a hand to the temperature of a vintage. The glass design also allowed the customer’s nose, mouth, and hand, to lift, taste, and feel the quality of the vessel prior to enjoying its content.
Each table setting was measured for spacing of pre-set cutlery that was serviced during the evenings. The glasses and bread plates perfectly balanced the geometry of the table. For the centerpiece, flowers were cut daily and placed in a small artisan vase. The arrangement was measured based on the height of the guest who reserved the table. We tucked in herbs of the season with floral to accent the sense of place.
Often a manager would sit at the table assuring each centerpiece accented the table, never conflicting with the eyesight of guests. The flowers were discarded for new for each meal period.
When the Chef de Cuisine would prefer a size or shape of Bernardo China, we would measure the size of the dining space, so utensils and plates fit seamlessly. China couldn’t be selected it didn’t fit perfectly on the table.
Balance for the customer was as important as food balance to the chef.
A quick trip to the restroom meant the server provided a freshly placed napkin. Purses were stowed on a hand design small platform that nestled perfectly tableside with linen cloche matching the color of the lady’s dress. If a gentleman removed his jacket, we offered linen cloches for protection from dust or stains.
In our bars, we placed a small hanger under the edge where a purse could be hung safely and with care.
At the end of the meal, French press coffee was served and accompanied by warm cream and three styles of sugar.
As the years pulsed forward, three raw sugars moved into calorie concise varieties, but cups were always stored in warmers with handles cool enough to handle.
An apothecary of complimentary quarter-sized sweets was made available for guests at the end of the meal. There were thirty varieties to choose between. This was in addition to the pre-dessert, the degustation dessert, and other complementary accents.
In the early years, even our guests’ checks were accompanied by a customized Montblanc pen and complimentary photos were placed next to the menu to be sent to a guest’s home after the experience.
No-touch was too great in the world of luxury. Today when members or their guests talk about the quality of food, it may start with ingredients and proper preparation, but service instruments are required to coddle these culinary and beverage works of art.